An integral part of Mugello, the Apennines form its northern frame and, on the side bordering with Romagna, they cover the small mountain valley of Firenzuola, center of the so-called Alto Mugello.

From the entrance of the A1, cross the center of Barberino along Via della Repubblica, parallel to the short and today pedestrianized Corso Bartolomeo Corsini, a medieval road that in the past was crowded with artisans, then take SP 8 “della Ruzza” named from the valley that flanks it, with the beautiful village of Cirignano. At the Montecarelli crossroads, take the SS 65, “la Bolognese,” a sinuous road which, winding along an open landscape, connects Florence to Bologna through Passo della Futa. Montecarelli, then Santa Lucia and Monte di Fò are the first hamlets that accompany us to the pass, which is reached after a series of wonderfully steep bends, which are the prelude to a change in nature and atmosphere.

In fact, between meadows and pine forests, you will reach 903 meters of the pass, announced by the imposing pyramid wall of the Germanic Military Cemetery, where over 30,000 German soldiers who died in Italy during WWII are buried. A guardian who stands solemnly among the breathtaking views of the Firenzuola valley. Here nature is sovereign, it is strong: pure beauty. Along “la Bolognese” passing through Traversa, Faggiotto, Covigliaio, clusters of houses cling to the slopes of the mighty peaks of Sasso di Castro and Monte Beni, places that seen forgotten by tourism, are a silent retreat, dotted with second homes with mountain architecture. The Oasi Naturalistica di Covigliaio nature reserve in Faggiotto, with its marked paths and natural springs, allows you to relive the ancient nature of this area, where trekking and biking routes are intertwined today in paths known as “Via degli Dei,” which connects Bologna to Florence. Together with Via degli Dei you’ll also find lesser-traveled itineraries such as the ancient Citerna-Boccadirio path, as well as the Flaminia Militare, a Roman road discovered in the late 1970s, also used by the hamlet of L’Apparita, which slightly precedes the Passo della Futa. Before Passo della Raticosa, on the right, choose the descent towards Firenzuola, through Paliana: from here, the presence of man becomes one with the scenery with small, qualified farms and riding stables, crops, and tractors at work.

We then arrive in Firenzuola, a gateway between Tuscany and Romagna, as well as the place of origin of pietra serena, a grey sandstone used both in architecture and in art, as recounted in the small dedicated museum. Going up the Apennine coast along the SP 116, a secondary road which passes through tiny hamlets such as Castro San Martino, Cornacchiaia, whose Romanesque church is worth a visit, takes us back to Passo della Futa in a loop, with the frame of the mountains, from the Sasso di Castro to the Passo della Raticosa on the right-hand side.

From the Futa, then you go down to the left towards Barberino. The dilemma presents itself at Santa Lucia. Should we continue up to Lake Bilancino through the ups and downs of “la Bolognese,” between stately residences and well-kept farmhouses, up to Le Maschere, with its sixteenth to eighteenth-century villa of the same name? Or should we turn left and reach the east side of the lake, where you can take advantage of the waters of the Panna spring, relax in the chestnut groves that extend up to Galliano, visit the local wildlife oasis or, again, the Convent of Bosco ai Frati, with its naked Christ possibly of Donatello? It’s an arduous choice, but best to rely on your own instinct. In season, the rugged area of Panna is a destination for mushroom and truffle hunters. If you arrive at the lake at sunset via Villa Le Maschere, you are welcomed from a landscape that is tinged with unexpected colors. In any case, both choices are winning ones.

Whichever route you choose, you’ll glide gently towards the lake, along Via Gastone Nencini to the south which, at the Cafaggiolo roundabout leads to an unexpected tunnel. Followed by yet another succession of curves, there are rest areas that offer enchanting views of Lake Bilancino. Here the lake appears and disappears behind the green vegetation that surrounds its banks, marking the natural arrival point of an itinerary as tortuous as it is evocative.