Full Bloom | Minimalism | Tailoring Relaxed | Modern Safari | Sports Expressive
It seems only natural that in a season of rejuvenation, we break out the bouquets and lead the charge to summer with a heady wardrobe of vibrant floral motifs. From blazing hot Casablanca to the evergreen Tom Ford, flower prints were in bloom in every corner of the menswear garden, propelling a bold collection of looks characterised by silk short-sleeved shirts and loose-fitting trousers. Think less English garden and more tropical paradise when it comes to the florals, with Ted Baker providing some stunning short-sleeve shirt options (you can always tone down the boldness of the prints with a warm base of cream or pastel trousers, providing a sumptuous balance).
If the floral tribe are waving the flag for an outpouring of colour, then those over at Planet Minimalism are proving that mood-enhancing sophistication needn’t come from a rainbow. There’s something utterly satisfying about clean lines and a monochrome palette, a fact that wasn’t missed by the likes of Jil Sander, Fear of God, Juun.J, Ambush and so many others this season. When life gets complicated, pare it back: boxy silhouettes by Reiss and Lacoste, conspire with no-button shirts, straight trousers and even boilersuits to create an outstandingly clean summer trend.
The suit has often moonlighted as menswear's zeitgeist over the years, from the identikit business suits of the 50s to Giorgio Armani’s boxy creations in the power-crazed 80s. This season, tailoring finds itself reinvented, having spent much of 2020 in the wardrobe. Gone is the business-as-usual suiting, making way for a softly tailoring construction that favours elegant drape over macho armour. Natural shades of grey and off-white formed the sartorial looks of the season, with BOSS leading the way with a modern, loose-fitting silhouette. Ditch the notion of shirt and tie and opt instead for camp collar shirts, tonal tees and smart sandals or loafers. In the #WFH era, it’s time to redefine ‘office appropriate’.
If there is one garment to trump them all in the Spring/Summer collections it is the safari jacket, that icon of menswear utility. Designers this season have really got their collective creative teeth into it. Brands such as Dior and Tod’s have kept to a traditional script with heritage pieces in military green and brown hues, whereas POLICE and GANT have put a new twist on it with oversized silhouettes, surplus pockets, technical fabrics and military details. Trend hounds might complement it with baggy khaki shorts and boots for an edgy military-inspired look, but the versatility of the safari jacket makes it an easy addition to any modern wardrobe.
Once a niche subculture, streetwear now sits at the big table of luxury fashion with the likes of Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh taking the genre to new heights. This season sees sportswear in its most experimental phase yet as brands such as Under Armour and adidas introduce eccentric prints to a familiar tableau of oversized hoodies, sweats, jersey shorts and bucket hats. Statement colours have been worked into matching sets at Nike, who also have some eye-popping patterns to punctuate your rotation of chunky kicks. Even the season’s must-have accessories - bucket hats, cross-body bags and statement socks have been given an injection of wild patterns and wilder colours.