aw21

The Menswear Edit

The AW21 Trend Guide

From wraparound silhouettes to statement knitwear, AW21’s trends are a stunning amalgam of the cool and the classic.

Coach

DSquared2 (Outly)

The Wrap-Around Coat
With so many of us working from home over the last 18 months, it was inevitable that the WFH life would infiltrate fashion, this time in the guise of the wrap-around coat. Yep, dressing gown couture was prevalent in many a collection, from Ermenegildo Zegna to Louis Vuitton and Fendi, providing a coolly casual take on the classic long-line coat. It’s power dressing with a lower-case p, punctuated by soft shawl lapels, waist-high belts and muted tones, perfect to pair with relaxed tailoring and black loafers. For something with a little more structure, the modern trench coat is a failsafe, with the likes of Burberry and BOSS showcasing some of the finest examples of the season.

aw21_trends

BOSS

Coach

Golden Brown
If there’s one colour that epitomises autumnal sophistication it’s that rich caramel brown that evokes the colour of fallen leaves. This season saw designers such as Acne Studios, Officine Generale and AMI doubling down on this chic colour, playing with the nuances of tones along a spectrum of silky cream on the one hand and burnt orange on the other. Which to choose? Well, all of them actually, because tonal layering was all over the runways, with brown suede or corduroy jackets by Harmont&Blaine and Boggi Milano paired with loose-fit beige trousers, caramel roll-necks and tan accessories. It’s a look that’s full of class, but easy to put together, too. Just think about mixing up your fabrics (wool, corduroy, cotton, leather, suede) to get a nice tactile finish and you’ll be right on the money.

Woolrich

Paul Smith

Rustic Royal
Think old-school country attire meets modern outerwear silhouettes and you’ve got the rustic royal trend nailed. With a decidedly utilitarian vibe (functional pockets and technical fabrics) this trend maximises traditional patterns such as heritage checks and typical countryside tones like olive green, earthy brown and khaki beige. Give your outdoorsy look an instant upgrade with a wax jacket by Peuterey, rollneck sweater by Polo Ralph Lauren, rustic check shirt by Tommy Hilfiger and beige tailored chinos by Calvin Klein. The secret to pulling off the look is in your fabric diversity and sticking to the classic tones. Accessorise with traditional countryside items such as a flap cap and rugged leather boots.

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Levi's

Armani

Neo Dress Code
If anything was going to change the decades-same trajectory of tailoring, it was the paradigm shift in how we have been working. The uniformity of the classic business suit has given way to a much more relaxed vision of what it means to ‘look the business’. Informal fits, unstructured silhouettes and a mixing up of menswear codes is the new office aesthetic. Chore jackets by the likes of Armani and Corneliani have usurped the classic suit jacket this season, worn with sleek dark roll-neck jumpers. The colour palette is decidedly dark and muted (think navy, charcoal and lighter tints of blue and red), with an emphasis on soft informal fabrics and slouchy silhouettes. Finally a reason to go back into the office and impress your colleagues!

Trussardi

Guess

The Statement Jumper
1960s and ‘70s influences abound this season, the most notable being the penchant for bold statement knitwear. From Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana to Casablanca and Dior Men, there were eye-opening knits to jump-start any winter wardrobe. Intarsia graphics and bold geometric patterns are the way forward, and on a canvas of kaleidoscopic colours. Crewnecks by Diesel and La Martina are genuine head-turners, especially when contrasted with a neutral-tone pair of wide-leg trousers. On the runways, many looks were styled with a block-colour roll neck beneath the loud jumper for a subtle layered effect and accessories included playful jewellery, ankle boots and small shoulder bags. As for the cut, well, slouchy styles are non-negotiable right now so don’t go for anything too fitted.

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Antony Morato

Paul Smith

Red Alert
You’ve heard of painting the town red, well now it’s time to let nature’s boldest colour go to town on your wardrobe! The strongest hue of the season is an attention-grabbing red, worn in flashes against dark or neutral tones for maximum ‘look at me’ impact. Brands such as Louis Vuitton, Jil Sander and Wooyungmi used the boldest of red tones to great effect through various length jackets and knitwear paired with neutral tones and even red-on-red layering in some cases. Knits by MSGM and Levi's and outerwear by the likes of Superdry are in our sights. If you prefer to be a little more subtle with your integration of red, look to accessorise with it instead, notably in the form of ties, scarves, shirts and accented sneakers and boots. Avoid clashing with other bright colours and instead contrast with black or cream for a strong autumnal look.

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